{"id":38,"date":"2017-03-16T11:25:44","date_gmt":"2017-03-16T10:25:44","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.masina.rs\/eng\/?p=38"},"modified":"2021-07-28T14:06:03","modified_gmt":"2021-07-28T13:06:03","slug":"real-price-geox-shoes","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.masina.rs\/eng\/real-price-geox-shoes\/","title":{"rendered":"What Is the Real Price of Geox Shoes?"},"content":{"rendered":"
\"\"<\/a>
Geox Factory in Vranje, Serbia; Photo: Marko Mileti\u0107<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

When questioned about the things going on in the production halls of the Serbian factories owned by foreign companies, Serbian politicians arrogantly reply by singing praises to the economic \u201ctriumphs\u201d arising out of fat state subsidies. However, the experiences of workers employed at factories such as Geox<\/em> in Vranje reveal to us the real price of that economic success. Irregular contracts, mobbing, psychiatric treatment, constant interventions of emergency medical aid crews were\u00a0but a part of the harsh reality testified to by the workers of Geox<\/em>.<\/strong><\/p>\n

The Italian company Geox has its branches in 114 countries, its products are sold in around 10,000 retail outlets, and the company owns around 1,200 shops that only sell Geox shoes. The company realises 70 per cent of its turnover outside Italy, and in 2014 its earnings amounted to 824.2 million euros. The company employs 30,000 workers, staff and outside collaborators. Geox has manufacturing plants in China, Vietnam, Indonesia, South Korea, Brazil, Macedonia and \u2013 Serbia.<\/em><\/p>\n

This is the way the media usually present the biographies of big companies when announcing their economy-saving investments \u2013 \u201cin a neutral manner in terms of value judgement\u201d, and numerically.<\/p>\n

Geox<\/em> has been \u201cworking\u201d in Serbia since 2013, but the official opening ceremony was held only on 31st January this year. For this corporate celebrity to select our country for its investment destination, the Government of Serbia had to reach deep into its budget bag \u2013 11.25 million euros, that is to say, 9,000 euros for each new post created. The Government also gave Vranje 100 million dinars for land development in the Free Zone, which was a prerequisite for the construction work on the factory building to start. However, faced with the imposing forest of corporate numerology, we often fail to observe the \u201chuman resources\u201d toiling away, hidden in the bowels of factory production halls, creating surplus value for the owners of their work and time \u2012 a surplus without which this impressive business empire would not exist.<\/p>\n

At\u00a0Geox<\/em>,\u00a0they have no names \u2012 they are mere numbers. Appendages to the machine. Tools that are forbidden to speak. Several former and current employees of Geox<\/em>, after a lot of deliberation, fearful of losing their jobs and afraid for the safety of their families in \u201ca small town where everyone knows everything\u201d, agreed to share their experiences with the reporters of Machine<\/em>.<\/p>\n

Blackmail potential and retroactive employment contracts<\/strong><\/p>\n

For the sum of 150 euros you have become the owner of that person\u2026\u00a0walking in through the factory gate, he\/she is no longer a person,\u00a0just a number,\u00a0they don\u2019t call you by your name.<\/em><\/p>\n

Gabrijela Krsti\u0107, former\u00a0Geox<\/em> employee<\/p>\n

Until a few months ago, when the situation improved, except for the first several hundred workers, experienced at shoemaking, who were \u201cbrought\u201d to\u00a0Geox<\/em>\u00a0during the first round of employment and employed on a full-time basis, all the other employees were hired on the basis of part-time contracts lasting from one month to five months. However, Geox<\/em>\u00a0employees that we have talked to, claim that they often worked for months without a contract, that they were offered to sign a contract only several months later \u2013 retroactively.<\/p>\n

I first signed a contract for a month, then another one for two months, and then yet another one for five months\u2026 however, they only gave me the latter in May and said, sign this one for five months, but that five-month period was to expire in a month, says Marija622.<\/span>1<\/sup><\/a><\/span><\/p><\/blockquote>\n

Stefan748 has worked at\u00a0Geox<\/em>\u00a0for eleven months, of which only eight were covered by a contract. The last five-month contract that he was offered to sign was set to expire in three days.<\/p>\n

When I started working, I signed a one-month contract, which was followed by a two-month contract, everything was regular. However, my next contract was running late \u2012 practically, as of the beginning of 2016, I worked without a contract. For a while, I kept silent and waited, then I asked the management what was happening, and was told that the contract was being prepared and that they were making every effort that I should get it as soon as possible. On the last working day before the summer vacation, in August, one of the firm\u2019s lawyers called me and told me that they had \u201cfound\u201d my contract. Then they gave me a five-month contract to sign, which I was supposed to sign retroactively. That contract covered the period from 15th March until 15th August, and it was 12th August then.<\/p>\n

I thought about what I should do, and my line of reasoning was, if I signed, there was a chance of getting that contract extended, if not, I would probably get my marching orders right away, says Stefan.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

This kind of attitude predominates in Vranje, in view of the very high unemployment rate and even lower salaries paid by other firms in the P\u010dinja District, which are not privileged to be subsidised by the state.<\/p>\n

The case of Gabrijela Krsti\u0107, which has received media publicity on account of the fact that this Geox<\/em> employee was fired for publicly opposing the company management in the course of a protest, which several hundred employees participated in – is particularly illustrative from a legal point of view.<\/p>\n

Namely, the protest took place on 5th September, and Gabrijela was fired the next day. Yet, the decision to fire her was dated 31st August, when Gabrijela\u2019s contract officially ran out. The question that is quite justified here is how a person who was not legally employed could go on strike and then be fired on account of that strike.<\/p>\n

I then said to them that they were violating their contractual obligations, for the employer is legally obligated to inform the employees seven days in advance, as a minimum, of any changes in the working hours schedule, which had never happened in the ten months while I worked there, to which one of the female bosses replied: \u201cGo elsewhere to have your complexes treated.\u201d That was it for me, I was fired the next day, Gabrijela explained\u00a0for Machine<\/em>.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

Workers are expendable goods \u2013 when one \u201cbreaks down\u201d, another one replaces him\/her<\/strong><\/p>\n

In view of the fact that the labour pool in Vranje is overflowing with people who can hardly wait to get any kind of job, the workers\u2019 rights and their health condition are not very high on the list of priority items of the Geox<\/em> management. Just how alarming the situation in the company is, is testified to by the Head of the Medical Emergency Service in Vranje\u00a0Sla\u0111an Stanisavljevi\u0107<\/strong>, to whom we have talked.<\/p>\n

How frequent are the calls that the Medical Emergency Service gets from Geox<\/em>?<\/strong><\/p>\n

They have been rather frequent ever since that factory was opened. Sometimes even several times a day. For a while, the number of calls was somewhat reduced, and then increased again. I have been to Ni\u0161 on business today, so I don\u2019t have the data for today, but there were several calls from Geox<\/em> yesterday.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

What is the most frequent reason medical assistance is sought?<\/strong><\/p>\n

Most often it is due to nausea and collapse. Even though each patient is basically a different story.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

Apart from\u00a0Geox<\/em>,\u00a0there are other companies operating in Vranje, Alfa Plam<\/em>, not\u00a0to\u00a0mention\u00a0Simko<\/em>\u00a0and\u00a0Jumko<\/em>, although\u00a0these\u00a0other\u00a0firms\u00a0are operating\u00a0at\u00a0reduced\u00a0capacity. Do you\u00a0get\u00a0equally\u00a0frequent\u00a0calls\u00a0from\u00a0these other\u00a0factories?<\/strong><\/p>\n

That\u2019s a good question. No, just from Geox<\/em>,\u00a0which is symptomatic, we don\u2019t get as many calls from the other factories.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

Acting in accordance with the Law on Availability of Information of Public Interest, the Machine<\/em>\u00a0reporters requested the official protocols detailing the interventions of the Emergency Medical Service acting on calls received from Geox<\/em>, but we received no reply.<\/p>\n

Even though\u00a0Geox<\/em>\u00a0holds a record in terms of the number of Emergency Medical Service<\/p>\n

interventions, Geox<\/em>\u00a0employees claim that this is nowhere near the entire picture, in view of the fact that in a great many cases the factory management does not allow calling the Emergency Medical Service without their prior approval.<\/p>\n

The manageress has forbidden calling the Emergency Medical Service if someone does not feel well, if a person loses consciousness, or for any other reason. She has to be called first to look at the worker in question, to see what condition he\/she is in, to assess whether he\/she is still capable of working, says Gabrijela.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

Geox<\/em>\u00a0employees also claim that they were rarely given protective work equipment unless they expressly requested it and were persistent at it, as a result of which a number of them sustained injuries at work. Working in the sawing department, Marija got burns on her palms because she was not wearing protective gloves.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Chemicals that are used in production, on the hands and gloves of a worker<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

They wouldn\u2019t give us protective equipment, I asked for it, seeing that I would get burns, it\u2019s 200 degrees. It lasted for two days, on the third day I felt a burning sensation in my palms, 2 or 3 times I told the forewoman that I had a swelling on my palm, but no one reacted. Only on the third day, when burns appeared, accompanied with lymph, they got afraid and thought I might apply to the manageress, Marija explains.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

Another problem faced by\u00a0Geox<\/em>\u00a0workers is exercising their right to health care insurance. It was only after months of persistent requests that Gabrijela, Marija and Jelena633 managed to get their health care coupons, required for validating their health care booklets.<\/p>\n

I was asked by a member of the management staff: well, are you ill, I said I wasn\u2019t, do I have to be ill in order to get my health care booklet\u2026 He says: I see you\u2019re OK, what do you need a health care booklet for, Gabrijela explains.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

Through mobbing to a psychiatric diagnosis<\/strong><\/p>\n

Even though Geox<\/em>\u00a0employees complain of mobbing and violations of their work rights often enough, the cases of Marija and Jelena are particularly drastic, bearing in mind that they ended up undergoing psychiatric treatment after suffering the abusive and offensive behaviour of their superiors for months.<\/p>\n

Marija, who, after suffering burns on her hands, was transferred to the so-called preparation sector, particularly singles out the conduct of her former boss, the Italian Tiziana Cecconi, which the media have already reported on.<\/p>\n

Tiziana made sheer hell\u2026 she cut shoes here, threw shoes at us when they were not done well, kicked us, climbed onto the table in the middle of the mess hall when we were having breakfast to lecture us, Marija recalls.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

The Italian woman left Geox<\/em> on account of mobbing. Workers testify that she called them \u201cSerbian Gypsies\u201d who were \u201cfree to go to Bunu\u0161evac\u201d (a cemetery in Vranje) the moment Geox<\/em> left Serbia.<\/p>\n

However, even after Tiziana had left, the situation did not get any better for Marija. She was regularly given several tasks to perform simultaneously and received threats and suffered abuse from the human resources manageress. In her words, \u201cWhoever complained became a target\u201d, and domestic superiors could be even worse than foreigners.<\/p>\n

Only then did maltreatment start, I had to go down on my knees\u2026 someone spilled some glue, my boss comes up to me and says: your colleague is going out to do something, and you\u2019ll have to wipe this\u2026 the floor must shine. But when I was finished and came back to my post, she tells me: Why, there\u2019s no way you can fulfil your norm; and the hour that I spent on my knees scrubbing the floor doesn\u2019t count, says Marija.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

The period of working for\u00a0Geox<\/em>\u00a0brought Marija to the verge of a nervous breakdown; acting on the advice of her physician, she turned to a psychologist for help, and also lodged a complaint to an organisation that deals with monitoring and preventing mobbing.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Medical report<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

I suffered psychic torture and abuse, my blood pressure was 190\/100. Now I regularly see a psychologist in order to go back to being normal, that was truly unbearable, I kept silent about it, but I could no longer do it, I couldn\u2019t stand that pressure, my health suffered more during that year that I worked for Geox<\/em>\u00a0than in my entire lifetime, she explains.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

Geox<\/em>\u00a0still has not replied to the enquiry of the organisation that deals with preventing mobbing, and Marija still works for\u00a0Geox<\/em>, fearful of how the situation will develop.<\/p>\n

The case of Jelena, an experienced leather processing technician, who worked for seven years at the legendary Ko\u0161tana factory, is of particular interest.<\/p>\n

Jelena started working\u00a0for Geox<\/em>\u00a0in the middle of September last year \u2013 \u201cthrough a connection\u201d. However, during the course of her first month of work there, the connection \u201cwas severed\u201d, for Jelena did not wish to participate in the purchasing of jewellery for the forewoman who had employed her.<\/p>\n

Then the mobbing started, on a daily basis \u2013 abuse and maltreatment that made her take a sick leave only two months after starting to work for the firm and seek the help of a psychiatrist.<\/p>\n

As I did not participate in purchasing jewellery, I was maltreated and humiliated every day, called foul names, I can\u2019t even pronounce those vulgarities. When I complained of being treated in such a way, they sent me to the storage room to work there in extreme cold, and they didn\u2019t let me wear gloves and a warm jacket, for according to the rules you have to wear a thin coat. I ended up in the psychiatric ward, I take medicines, I have nightmares, I am traumatised and am afraid of what awaits me in some new job. This is something that cannot be forgotten, it is imprinted on the brain, Jelena recalls, speaking in a trembling voice, adding that her case was by no means isolated.<\/p>\n

Unfortunately, there are many stories like these. People suffer because of poverty and so they work, each woman there takes tranquilisers, each woman cries when she gets home from work, Jelena explains, her voice tinged with fear.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

Faber fabro lupus\u00a0est\u00a0(A worker is a wolf to another worker)?<\/strong><\/p>\n

The imperative of transnational companies in the global capitalist economy is to reduce workers to atomised individuals aware of the fact that, in practice, mutual solidarity brings them more harm than good. In the work place, they are not colleagues to one another but competition. If you do not like your working conditions, you are free to tender your resignation notice, there are others willing to work under such conditions \u2012 someone is always hungrier and\/or cheaper than you.<\/p>\n

You go to work as if you were to face a firing squad there. No one laughs. They have all sunk. There is no joy, no communication, not even with those closest to you on the assembly line. Constant stress. People there look like zombies, Stefan describes the atmosphere at\u00a0Geox<\/em>.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

What keeps people in the production halls is only the horrifying awareness of being under surveillance, so that they have to work lest they get \u201cbumped off\u201d. Every day they are in a position to watch some of them leave and others arrive \u2013 as if on a conveyor belt.<\/p>\n

On the other hand, there is the conveyor belt carrying goods that have to be delivered on a daily basis \u2013 until that norm is fulfilled, there is no going home.<\/p>\n

The workers do not collapse so much due to overwork but on account of stress. The clock keeps ticking above your head, the pressure is enormous, there\u2019s such and such a norm to be fulfilled, and when it is fulfilled, then they say: \u201cA-ha, you can do it, but you don\u2019t want to\u201d, so the norm gets increased, the clock keeps ticking, there\u2019s constant nagging and pressure, extreme nervousness among people, and that is how quarrels occur among the workers themselves, Marija points out.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

According to the investigation conducted by Machine<\/em>, the actual salaries at Geox<\/em>\u00a0are between 200 and 300 euros, but the figures are difficult to check, for the workers are forbidden to exchange information concerning their salaries.<\/p>\n

In the words of the female workers that we talked to, the employees often get different salaries for doing the same work, which the management justifies through various formal considerations.<\/p>\n

When, in March, I received 200 euros, everybody else took 250. I went to protest against this, to ask what the problem was. The boss showed me her computer, where it said I hadn\u2019t checked in on any of the Saturdays. I said that it was impossible I hadn\u2019t checked in at all, whereupon she told me to bring a certificate from the foreman stating that I had worked on those Saturdays. When I did bring her the certificate, she asked me: What\u2019s this letter? I said: That\u2019s what you asked for, but she just brushed me off, saying that she was the boss and that she decides the amount of someone\u2019s salary, Jelena described her situation.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

At\u00a0Geox<\/em>,\u00a0a factory discipline is imposed, and it is most efficiently achieved through strict measurability. In the words of one female worker, recently they started giving workers marks for the quality of their work, timely arrival at work and conduct.<\/p>\n

As regards breaks, at\u00a0Geox<\/em>\u00a0there is just one break for a minimum of eight hours of work, and the workers take a break in shifts for the purpose of achieving maximum productivity and avoiding communication among themselves. Apart from that one break, you go to the toilet only if your superior allows you or, as Stefan says, if you manage to \u201cdo the trick\u201d.<\/p>\n

In order to make it possible to go to the toilet, you must be as fast as Usain Bolt, or practically \u201coutpace the conveyor belt\u201d. Within the firm it was called \u201cdoing the trick\u201d, that is, working fast enough so as not to fall behind schedule while you rush to the toilet, which was practically impossible where I worked. Failing that, if there was no one to substitute for you, you couldn\u2019t go; if the belt \u201cruns away\u201d from you, there is chaos. The bosses shout at you, Stefan says.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

Lest there should be any misunderstanding, the\u00a0Geox<\/em>\u00a0management has also left written messages for the employees.<\/p>\n

The break<\/a> between groups shall be 5 instead of 10 minutes. Any employees staying in the mess hall for more that the allotted half an hour shall be punished, says one of the messages of the\u00a0Geox<\/em> management.<\/span><\/p>\n

Each employee who is found outside his\/her work place during working hours, that is, before working hours run out, and everyone who makes for or is found next to the check-out machine before the expiry of working hours shall be punished<\/a> by having one hour of work deducted.<\/span><\/p>\n

The reduction of (free) space and (free) time, the ban on talking and the use of numbers instead of personal names are classical instruments of the dehumanisation of workers. You sleep much more peacefully when you maltreat numbers, and not living people of flesh and blood.<\/p>\n

They don\u2019t know the workers\u2019 names and surnames, they pull them by their coats. I witnessed when they hit the children who had come to the factory for some practical training on the head with moulds, that was a horrendous act of maltreatment. You can\u2019t go to the toilet, you can\u2019t raise your head, you mustn\u2019t talk. The only thing they lacked was a whip, is how Jelena describes the methodology of work organisation at\u00a0Geox<\/em>.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

The\u00a0Machine<\/em>\u00a0reporters have sent questions to the Mayor of Vranje, asking him to comment on the situation at\u00a0Geox<\/em>, but even though we have been promised answers, none arrived before this text went into print.<\/p>\n

Geox<\/em>\u00a0as a paradigm of economic \u201cdevelopment\u201d<\/strong><\/p>\n

The business operations of the Italian shoe factory\u00a0Geox<\/em>\u00a0in Vranje may be viewed as a paradigm of the concept of economic flourishing of countries undergoing transition,\u00a0which boils down to attracting direct foreign investments through: subsidies, operating in \u201cfree zones\u201d, where state laws are often suspended, and reliance on cheap labour.<\/p>\n

Subsidised\u00a0multinational companies at the capitalist (semi-)periphery usually invest in technologically simple production operations that require repetitive and\u00a0exhausting work\u00a0of employees, using easily transportable machines that are not difficult to transfer to other states. Also, they invest in locations that have a tradition of that kind of production, for in that way they can count on cheap and well trained labour. As we can see,\u00a0Geox<\/em>\u00a0did everything by the textbook of global capitalist economy. The Government of Serbia \u2012 as the \u2018authorised\u2019 agency for bribing foreign investors and renting out its own citizens \u2012 did so as well.<\/p>\n

And what about the workers? Well, as Serbian Prime Minister Aleksandar Vu\u010di\u0107 supercynically said on a Sunday afternoon during the opening ceremony at Geox<\/em>,\u00a0in front of a line of workers with dark expressions on their faces \u2013 \u201cWhen they walk through the streets of foreign metropolises, they\u2019ll see products of their own hands in the shop windows.\u201d We can only hope that walking thus, like shadows, they will at the same time \u201cmake the gentry feel afraid\u201d again.<\/p>\n

Translation from Serbian: Novica Petrovi\u0107<\/p>\n

* Apart from Sa\u0161a Dragojlo, Bojana Tamind\u017eija and Marko Mileti\u0107 also participated in this investigation conducted by Machine.<\/pre>\n
This article has been published in Serbian<\/a>, November 2016.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
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